DCTKD • Korea / Kyongju

Sites of Korea: Kyongju

Kyongju is a city of special significance because of its rich history as the capital of the Shilla kingdom. In addition to a variety of tourist activities, Kyongju offers a phenomenal wealth of cultural and historical items including tombs, temples, and Buddhist sites. The Lonely Planet guidebook is accurate when describing Kyongju as an "open air museum" (p. 152).

Representing the first time that the peninsula was under the rule of one government (7th Century), Silla offers an ideal that holds marked relevance to the present day.

Tumuli Park and Chomsongdae Observatory
Tumuli are the tombs of Silla royalty. There are 56 burial mounds of various sizes in Kyongju with 23 in this one location. When grouped in close proximity to one another, these burial mounds are even more impressive as historical artifacts and "have dignity in silence and give intimacy of conversation beyond a millennium's time and space."

Chomsongdae Observatory (built circa A.D. 632-647 during the reign of Queen Sondok) is across the road from Tumuli Park. The Lonely Planet Korea Tourbook explains the complexity of this structure best:

Its apparently simple design conceals an amazing subtlety. The 12 stones of its base symbolise the months of the year and, from top to bottom, there are 30 layers -- one for each day of the month. Altogether there are 366 stones used in its construction, roughly one for each day of the year. There are numerous other technical details relating to the tower's position, angles and the direction of its corners in relation to certain stars.

Pulguk Temple
Originally constructed in 528 AD and called Hwaombulguksa or Pobryusa, subsequent construction was undertaken two centuries later. Following completion in 774, the temple became known under its current name ("Pulguk-": the Land of Happiness). Since then, as with the rest of Kyongju, it has been the victim of neglect and decay at various periods (Koryo and Choson dynastic periods; Japanese Invasion, 1590's, and Occupation earlier this century). From 1969 to 1973, the temple was renovated on a grand scale and restored to its present state.

Pulguksa is a working temple. Visitors are welcome to walk around the designated areas and to spend lots of time in the gift shop.

Sokkurram Grotto
About a mile up T'oham mountain from Pulguksa is Sokkuram Grotto, a fantastic Buddhist shrine. Inside this structure is a statue of Shakyamuni sitting in the lotus position on a stone lotus pedestal surrounding by other statues and carvings of Buddhist saints and disciples.

Sokkuram was built by prime minister Kim Dae-sung in 751 as part of the construction of Pulguksa. Originally called Sogbulsa, this structure was built to honor the memory of his parents in a previous life while Pulguksa honored his parents of his current life. Over many centuries, Sokkuram underwent an extended period of decay. During the colonial rule period for the first half of the 20th Century, the Japanese undertook three separate rennovation projects. By 1961, the Korean government dedicated resources to the rennovation of Sokkuram. Primary benefits included dehydration of the cave, temperature controls, structural analysis, and cleaning of the statue.

Although it is not known exactly how Sokkuram appeared in previous centuries, today it is an impressive sight. The best time to visit Sokkuram is the early morning just before sunrise. The peacefulness and solitude of the mountaintop are reflected in the contemplative expression on the face of the statue.

Namsan (South Mountain)
On the slopes and within the valleys of Namsan are numerous Buddhist statues, rock carvings, shrines, and temples. Many statues have been relocated from other locations, so any trail to the peak offers interesting sights. Along the way to the summit, some views provide a gorgeous panoramic of the valley and surrounding area.

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Korea 1998