Kyongju, A Visit to Korea's Past

Our longest trip was a two-day excursion to Kyongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, in the southeast corner of the peninsula. This trip provided us with a significant education in Korean culture and history.

The history of Kyongju dates back to 57 B.C. and extends right up to Silla's conquest by Koryo in the 10th century. With a historical period that exceeds Rome's as a vigorous capital city, Kyongju offers a phenomenal wealth of cultural and historical significance including tombs, temples, and Buddhist sites. The Lonely Planet guidebook is accurate when describing Kyongju as an "open air museum (p. 152)."

The feeling that was most apparent as Americans visiting for the first time was the significance of Silla's accomplishment in the 7th Century to the present situation between the two Koreas. Representing the first time that the peninsula was under the rule of one government, Silla offers an ideal that holds marked relevance to the present day.

After a four hour drive and two rest stop visits, we arrived in Kyongju in the early afternoon, had a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, and proceeded to Tumuli Park as our first stop.

 
Tumuli Park and Chomsongdae Observatory

It should be noted that a brief two day trip is definitely not enough time to fully capture the essence of Kyongju. There is so much to see and learn that even a week does not offer sufficient time to explore.

Nonetheless, what we did see, experience, and learn was quite significant and probably piqued our interest sufficiently so that a return trip to Korea will include a longer stay to satisfy our curiosity. For example, at Tumuli Park we were first exposed to the burial mounds of the Silla royal class. We were amazed at the number, size, and significance of the mounds and enjoyed the opportunity to walk amidst these 20 monuments to an ancient culture. From Tumuli Park, we took a short walk to Chomsongdae Observatory (built circa A.D. 632-647).

The Lonely Planet tourbook explains the complexity of this structure best:

Its apparently simple design conceals an amazing subtlety. The 12 stones of its base symbolise the months of the year and, from top to bottom, there are 30 layers -- one for each day of the month. Altogether there are 366 stones used in its construction, roughly one for each day of the year. There are numerous other technical details relating to the tower's position, angles and the direction of its corners in relation to certain stars.

 
Institute of the Hwarang

Before arriving at the hotel, we visited the Hwarang Institution of Learning, a government-sponsored organization. This organization is dedicated to educating high school and college-age boys in the ideals of Hwarang, the legendary group from the Three Kingdom Period. As with nearly everything in Kyongju, the symbolism of Silla is prevalent in the operation of the Hwarang Institute. By instructing the future leaders of Korea in the ideology of the Hwarangdo (fidelity, faith, trust, courage, generosity), the country will be better prepared to welcome their North Korean brethren when the auspicious event of reunification occurs.

The institute grounds are laid out much like a small college with the main administrative and classroom buildings surrounded by auxiliary fields and mountains. The main buildings are designed in the architectural style of Silla which is to say that they are quite elegant. The surrounding campus contains a picturesque archery range, a tsirum (traditional Korean wrestling) ring, and soccer field.

 
Sokkuram Grotto

Early that evening, we checked into the Hotel Concord and enjoyed the dinner show with our meal. After dinner, a few of us walked through the Pomun Tourism Complex immediately adjacent to the hotel grounds, and at 9 pm watched an impressive traditional Korean musical show. Following this, a few of us gathered outside a small restaurant and socialized for several hours enjoying another opportunity to unwind from our hectic schedule.

Unfortunately for several of us, the time spent in conversation the evening before, took away from much needed rest for the next day which began at 3:45 am. The reason for this was a trip to Sokkuram Grotto high in the mountains to view the spectacular sunrise as well as the seated stone image of the Sakyamuni Buddha. The bus left the hotel parking lot at 4 am and arrived at the mountain top just before 5. The groggy group was greeted by a chilling wind as they waited for the gates to open. Also, because of the overcast sky, there was not the scintillating view for which the area is reknowned.

Everyone in the group did not participate in this trip. Having missed his wake-up call, this author was almost a casualty of the previous evening's socializing. After finally rousing from a deep slumber at 4:45 am, a mad scramble investigating the costs of a taxi ride to Sokkuram (W45,000), and determining that anyone who was still snug in their beds would not want to go, this author secured the help of the hotel concierge to hail a taxi and bargain a fare for remaining cash in this author's pocket, W30,000. At 5 in the morning, the driver probably wasn't going to get a better offer so the deal was made.

The ride up the mountain was pleasantly spent attempting to converse in Korean. In the mad dash to the lobby, the Korean-English dictionary was left behind so the very basic elements of conversation managed to serve as the extent of the conversation. Despite the severe construction on the roads, the driver reached the parking lot in about 40 minutes.

Leaving the driver behind, the author dashed up the stairs and through the gates greeting the rest of the group as they returned to the bus from the grotto. The seemingly exhausted, cranky looks on their faces was given little notice but was later understood when informed of their chilling wait an hour before.

With expectations creating an adrenaline buzz, the 3/4 of a mile hike on the dirt trail through the trees was refreshing. Reaching the grotto itself, there was a peaceful morning calm. Entering the shrine was remarkable. Although the image of the Buddha is behind a glass partition, the serene setting was still a powerful experience. Spending 20 minutes reflecting on the image accompanied by the guard sitting quietly by the entrance and the morning breeze drifting softly through the chamber was a very special moment.

At breakfast later that morning, it was evident that the extra hour's sleep and W30,000 were time and money well-spent. This is truly a sight to experience in effective solitude and reflection.

 
Pulguk Temple

The visit to the Pulguk Temple was equally special.

Originally constructed in 528 AD and called Hwaombulguksa or Pobryusa. Subsequent construction was undertaken two centuries later and following completion in 774, the temple became known under its current name ("Pulguk-": the Land of Happiness). Since then, as with the rest of Kyongju, it has been the victim of neglect and decay at various periods (Koryo and Choson dynastic periods; Japanese Invasion, 1590's, and Occupation earlier this century). From 1969 to 1973, the temple was renovated on a grand scale and restored to its present state.

Highlights for our group included the four Sach'onwang that protect Buddhism in the four directions (Chigukch'onwang, Chungjangch'onwang, Kwangmokch'onwang, and Damunch'onwang). We were captivated with these colorful statues each with its own distinctive "personality."

 
More Information

This singular account does not remotely capture the essence of Sokkuram Grotto. For a much more elaborate description of the history and significance of this ancient site, please view these informative sites:

• World Heritage Information
  http://www.ocp.go.kr/english/treasure/dom_sgr.html
• Asian Historical Architecture: Seokguram Grotto
  http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/kyongju/seokguramindex.htm
• Sokkuram Buddha: An Unforgettable Likeness of Being (The Korea Times)
  http://times.hankooki.com/lpage/culture/200310/kt2003100118535811000.htm

Next:   The Demilitarized Zone