The Demilitarized Zone

The last activity on our schedule was a visit to the Demilitarized Zone, the designated "no man's land" between North and South Korea. This was, by far, the most eirie tourist destination many of us had ever visited. As the Korean War is technically still still in progress, one has a very odd feeling visiting the DMZ. Especially with the periodic news reports of recent activities between the two countries' military forces. Nonetheless, visiting the DMZ does provide the opportunity to consider the situation from a different perspective. In other words, it becomes very real and serves to highlight the continual tension between the Koreas.

We arrived at the checkpoint to the DMZ about 2:30 in the afternoon. The guards at the gate spoke briefly with the driver before allowing our three buses to proceed across the bridge. The bus weaved through the barriers across the bridge to the checkpoint at the other end whereupon one of the Korean officers moved quickly onto the bus, walked halfway down the aisle before demanding the film of one of our teammates. It turned out that he had snapped a quick picture as the bus moved through the gate. This was not a good thing. Although the officer was very professional, it was quite obvious that this incident was quite substantial.

As the other two buses waited, our bus circled back around to the first checkpoint. We considered the possibility that our visit was over and that we would have an early arrival at the airport. However, we were detained only momentarily before crossing the bridge once again. Rejoining the other two buses, we proceeded to Dora Observatory.

Inside Dora Observatory we sat down in the theatre-style seating with a view looking across to North Korea. An officer gave a brief presentation of the primary landmarks in this panoramic. On this particular day, there was not a cloud in the sky so we had a gorgeous view of the seemingly near yet very distant North Korean mountain range and a couple of towns.

After the presentation, we boarded the bus and drove a short distance to the Third Tunnel. This is one of the North Korean tunnels dug as an apparent means to invade the south.

What are the primary impressions that one has of a visit to the DMZ? To begin with, a comparison with the scant recent information about the DMZ is made. Uppermost in mind is an article about the DMZ being a ecological refuge with an abundant variety of wildlife inhabiting the majority of area. Sitting in Dora Observatory on a brilliant, cloudless afternoon looking across to the north, the scenic view is truly beautiful and inspiring. Another thought is that only a week before, the president of Hyundai led a herd of 500 head of cattle across the same bridge only a week before (on the day of our arrival, to be exact).

And, of course, thoughts of the beginning of the war over 50 years ago and the impact both then and now on so many are present and difficult to fully comprehend.

The KoreanWar.org has an article entitled, "The Forgotten DMZ" that may be of interest at:

http://www.koreanwar.org/html/dmz_war.html

For information about the Korean War and North Korea, please visit these on-line book sites:

Combat Actions in Korea (1970 edition) by Russell A. Gugeler (HTML at US Army CMH)

http://imabbs.army.mil/cmh-pg/30-2_CON.HTM

Policy and Direction: The First Year by James F. Schnabel (HTML at US Army CMH)

http://www.army.mil/cmh-pg/books/p&d.htm

North Korea: A Country Study, ed. by Andrea Matles Savada (HTML at LOC)

http://lcweb2.loc.gov/frd/cs/kptoc.html#kp0000

Next:   Fini and Farewell